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Bennachin - African cuisine in New Orleans
Once again, I am reminded why the Bennachin booth is my first stop at JazzFest. I never ate at the restaurant's former address, but the new digs are absolutely charming. We sat at a table near the window, watching the morons park on the sidewalk. Lively music played overhead, tempting you to shake what ya mamma gave ya. It was just like eating at a good friend's house...if they lived in Africa.
I must have stared at the menu for quite awhile; Everything sounded so good, I had a difficult time deciding. The prices were excellent. Most entrees were arount the $9.00 price range, and I think the most "expensive" was $20.00 for a whole fish. There was also a variety of dishes to order if you are of the vegetarian persuasion. I finally decided on the chicken noodle soup as an appetizer. It was very flavorful, a bit more than expected. The noodles were firm and buttery, the meat was tender and lean, and the broth was very peppery, maybe a little too much for some people's taste. My entree was a dish (I forget the African name) of a chicken leg and thigh, plantains, greens, and rice. Now, Bennachin isn't a "fancy-schmancy" restaurant, so don't expect award-winning presentation. What my food lacked in artistic value, the flavor more than made up for it...and kicked it's ass. You can order your spice to your liking, so being the wuss I am, I ordered it with just a touch. (On a side-note, I heard the macho men at the table sniffling throughout the dinner.) It came out with just the right amount of heat. The chicken was once again tender and not fatty at all. My greens and plantains were oh-so-perfect. I don't know what they do to those greens, but I have never had them so good. And where some places overcook the plantains, these were big pieces that were soft on the inside, sticky and carmalized on the outside. The rice was fine, acting more as a filler, I assume. A cold piece of bread, baguette style, really could have been eliminated from my dish. It was too hard to really do anything with it, but such a trivial thing. Overall, the food was hot, freshly prepared, and delicious.
Service is usually what makes or breaks a restaurant for me, even more so in an establishment that is only "okay". I arrived anticipating slow, unattentive service due to a few reviews I had read. Since I had also anticipated great food, I was willing to deal with this (what I hoped to be) minor setback. I am happy to report that I was pleasantly surprised. Not only was our waiter friendly, but he was attentive and courteous.
Although Bennachin is located on Royal St., it felt like eating in another country. The atmosphere was fun and upbeat, thanks to it's murals, regular guests, and soundtrack. Service was friendly but not overbearing, and the food was better than I've ever had it. I highly recommend Bennachin to anyone interested in trying great African cuisine without the hassle of buying airline tickets. For added authenticity (and giggles), why don't you pack a small bag. Don't forget to write!
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Leslie
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posted 07/07/04
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